Why is my water green/brown? Why can’t I see my fish?

A lot of new clients have called and have asked these very questions, well there are usually simple solutions to ease your pain.

Ultraviolet (UV) Sterilizer Filtration ( For Green Water)

The UV Sterilizer plays a very large roll in keeping your water clear from excess free floating algae “Planktonic Algae”  or pea soup colouration to your pond. As the water is pumped through the cylinder (by pond pump) the free floating algae is then exposed to the “UV Lamp” zapped and clumped together. As the algae dies it clumps together and gets filtered out by your “Mechanical Filtration” ( ie Filter Wool), in your filtration unit (If present)

Solutions for Brown Water – Generally lack of filtration, here are some filtration examples to help combat this issue.

Custom Filtration 

We make custom filtration systems for your existing pond or your future pond you are planning for. These filters are extremely easy to clean and are capable of handling a very large volume of water, thus leaving your water clear so you can enjoy your fish. Using the “Trickle Down” method, the pond water is pumped into the top of the filter and forced through a “spray bar” which also oxygenates as it enters the barrel. The water then is forced by gravity through a biological filtration such as Matala, which traps the bigger debris. The water continues its polishing as it goes through the reticulated foam, then through a cubic foot of Bio Balls and returns to pond through gravity to a waterfall or just a basic return. *There are many different types of media you can use, this is just a basic example


Ultimate Filtration

In a perfect world the proper filtration/ease of cleaning would be having a bottom drain.  A bottom drain is installed into EPDM Rubber liner (deepest point of pond) that runs under the liner into a “Vortex” settling tank. Here is where the large debris (i.e.. Leaves) is continuously collected as the pump runs 24/7 during pond season, making it very easy for cleaning as you don’t have to drain the pond completely, like that of one without.  It is also very easy for doing your weekly water changes with just a lift of a gate valve. As the water spins around in the Vortex tank, the heavy debris settles on the bottom.

The upper “cleaner” water then spills into the next filtering barrel, which would be the “Bioligical”  stage of filtration. (In most ponds without a bottom drain this is where the first stage of filtration takes place) Only capable of handling a certain size of particulate that is free floating in the water column, this media generally consists of a laundry bag of Bio Bialls,  a sheet of Matala or sometimes ceramic pieces.

The “Mechanical” stage is the final stage in the filtering process, removing the very fine particulate that the Vortex and Biological filtration could not “Polish” before being pumped back into the pond as crystal clear water. This media generally consists of Filter Whool or Reticulated Foam.

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Pressure Filters

A majority of clients own pressure filters as they are readily available and fairly easy to install. These filters have Biological, Mechanical and sometimes even UV sterilizers built in which is a bonus. These filters generally need cleaning quite regularly if you want to maintain proper water quality and clarity. The water is pumped into one side of the unit, filling the cannister. forcing the water from the bottom, it is forced by pressure through the sponge pads, then exposed to the UV Lamp as it leaves the unit, returning to the pond/waterfall. *Tip always keep an eye on the very valuable rubber “O” rings on this unit, there are usually three – The inlet and outlet, plus the main rubber “O” ring that seals the unit.

Bead Filters/Sand Filters

Bead Filters and Sand Filters are a great source of filtration, although very pricey they can be very beneficial as you can have a higher fish load. There is a downfall to having this system though, we have found over just a couple of seasons, the media gets caked up on the bottom, leaving you to de construct the whole unit to get full flow again. Having a blower installed and purging the filter prolongs this process but not always.

Water Changes

It is strongly recommended to make water changes on a weekly basis (Always remembering to add water conditioner when doing water changes) We suggest about a 10-15% Water Change every week.

*The more you feed your fish the more often you will have to clean your filters, the warmer the temperatures the faster their metabolism, this is generally when water clarity and quality start to take a hit in the summer months and create fish health concerns.

Water Quality

Pond Service